Dovrefjell

A six-day trek across the Dovre, starting in the high alpine moors of Dovrefjell, climbing 2286m Snøhetta, and descending into the glacial valleys of Åmotan and Sunndalen.

Leaving Kongsvoll

The train pulls away and we are alone in the mountains.

The E6 highway quickly recedes.

A detour up a valley where another hiker told us they had seen muskoxen.

Climbing Snøhetta

Breakfast. Instant coffee, granola, coconut milk powder, river water.

There are two birds at the summit. One of the hardiest songbirds in the world, residing farther north than any other passerine, the snow bunting, and the common gull.

The wind is vicious and cold. A passing rain shower leaves us with a rainbow over the expansive tundra.

An endless descent in the scale-free landscape, hours later, staring at the same lake.

Gone fishing

I wake up at 4am to re-stake the tent in 55 km/hr winds. It’s difficult in the shallow, rocky soil.

By 6am the wind is so intense that we have to remove the fly. A frustrating morning, but the nearby warm hut brings cheer before we set off.

Scheuchzer's Cotton-grass (Eriophorum scheuchzeri)
2024/08/14 12:31 PM
Oppdal Municipality, Norway
Plantae
1 IDs

The fjell is wide and empty. We only see two other people the entire day, fishing at Loennechenbua, the DNT’s smallest hut (two beds.)

Alpine Bloodspot Lichen (Ophioparma ventosa)
2024/08/14 1:24 PM
Oppdal Municipality, Norway
Fungi
1 IDs
Star-tipped Reindeer Lichen (Cladonia stellaris)
2024/08/14 2:49 PM
Oppdal Municipality, Norway
Fungi
0 IDs

Gorges

We leave the alpine tundra and traverse the steep Åmotan gorge, the confluence of six rivers and multiple waterfalls.

We make camp in a birch grove by a marshy lake. Lots of fish jumping, but Alison doesn’t have much luck. Next time maybe we should bring a fishing pole.

round-leaved sundew (Drosera rotundifolia)
2024/08/15 7:39 PM
Sunndal Municipality, Norway
Plantae
2 IDs

I leave the tent in the night and see a moose across the bog. Before she saunters into the forest, I take one bigfoot quality photo. It’s good enough for iNaturalist.

Everyberry

Bilberries for breakfast in the birches.

Climbed a mountain and found a phenomenal cloudberry patch.

Bog creatures

Sunrise on the boggy heath. An early start to catch the one bus of the day down in Sunndalen.

Knee-grinding final drop into Grøa. They just go about their lives here, like its normal.

An evening train on the Dovrebanen takes us back to Oslo.

Miscellaneous mushrooms